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Category: History

Bangalore: Exploring the multi-layered history of the city

Published in Free Press Journal; Date: 14.02.2018

If the soul of a city is uncovered by walking the streets, then definitely it holds true for Bangalore as it reveals itself beyond its IT hub and impersonal glass buildings. Kalyani Majumdar explores the multi-layered history of the city.

As you look past the traffic and catch sight of rows of pink and yellow flowers against the clear blue sky, for a second you forget the traffic, and savour the moment. Welcome to Bangalore/Bengaluru.

Rise of a modern city

Bangalore came into significance in 1537 AD, when Kempe Gowda I, a feudatory of Vijaynagar Empire laid the foundation of the city by building a mud Fort, wherein people of different vocation had their settlements. After him, it changed many hands from the Marathas to the Mughals, followed by Hyder Ali and then his son Tipu Sultan and finally, the British Empire. They have all left their imprints on Bangalore. However, Bangalore flourished as a city once the British took over. It started with the shifting of British Headquarters from Mysore to Bangalore in 1837. Gradually, the city witnessed a steady development of wider roads, boulevards, railway lines, improved post and telegraph facilities, and buildings.

A royal experience

A grand view of the Bangalore Palace; Photo credit: Kalyani Majumdar

As you approach the Bangalore Palace, it is hard to miss the close resemblance of the exterior with the Windsor Palace in England. It is a magnificent Tudor-style structure facing a beautiful garden and has royalty written all over its façade. The plot was bought by King Chamaraja Wadiyar’s guardians in 1873. The palace was built in 1887. Once inside it is hard to miss the bright yellow-coloured ballroom with its decorated columns, ceiling and arches. After taking in the splendour of the ball room walk up a wooden staircase to the Durbar Hall. The huge room with its embellished interiors, huge chandeliers and a beautiful collection of art is indeed a rich experience. The corridors have exhibits from Maharajas hunting escapades. One of the courtyards has a beautiful coloured-tile bench gifted by an erstwhile Spanish royal. It is highly recommended that you walk the lane lined up with trees on your way to the exit.

From South Parade to M.G Road

It is not just now that M.G Road in Bangalore is famous for being the centre of social life. Even during the British era, it had a similar character and was known as South Parade. The building that now has the office of Deccan Herald was once where the popular Funnel’s Restaurant stood. Next to it, is the iconic Higginbotham book store. It has been there since 1905. Recently, it revamped its interiors and now it has reopened with a colourful interior and the façade looks bright as well. The book store has a fantastic collection. There is certainly a sentimental factor attached to this bookshop that has catered to generations of booklovers and still continues to do so. It is lovely to see how the old and the new has blended effectively on this particular stretch. Across the road, alongside the metro station there is a lovely boulevard. The walkway is almost half a kilometer and is lined up with white and pink bougainvillea. It is so refreshing even though it is right next to a busy road.

The roads from the past

Book Society on St. Marks Road; Photo credit: Kalyani Majumdar

At the intersection where M.G Road meets St. Marks Road, you can see a gothic building with etching in bold letters that say, ‘Book Society’. It was built in 1912. Part of the building is now the Hard Rock Café and apparently, sometime back it also had a HMV record store. As you continue further on St Mark Road the prestigious Bowring Institute is on view. From there you can easily negotiate through wide streets to reach the Museum Road, lest you are not wearing comfortable shoes. In 1865, part of the Cantonment Jail building on this road, now Good Shepherd Convent, served as the Government Museum, before it was shifted to its present location on a beautiful neoclassical structure in Kasturba Road, in 1878. Nevertheless, the road retained its name, thus keeping alive a part of history. Also, on the same road right next to the Post Office stands a 150-year-old tiled-roof building that serve as the office of the senior superintendent of post office.

Cubbon Park

A statue of Queen Victoria stands at one corner of the Cubbon Park; Photo credit: Kalyani Majumdar

If you approach Cubbon Park from Kasturba Road then you will come across a statue of Queen Victoria standing at the corner of the Park, facing the busy street, perhaps wondering how much the city has changed since 1906. The Cubbon Park was established in 1870 by John Meade and the landscaping was done by Richard Sankey. It is a lovely place to park yourself under a tree with a book.

Imprints from the past

The Glass House at Lalbagh Botanical Garden; Photo credit: Kalyani Majumdar

At the entrance of the Lalbagh Botanical Garden there is a peninsular gneissic rock, dated to about 3,000 million years, making it one of the oldest rock formations on the planet. And atop the rock is the Kempe Gowda tower. Hyder Ali laid its foundation in 1760. It was a pleasure garden till William New, a gardener from Kew in London came to Lalbagh in 1858 and turned the place into a scientific research centre and maintained a regular inventory of the trees. He lived in a small cottage inside Lalbagh which is now the Lalbagh library. In 1874, John Cameron took over as superintendent of Lalbagh. He too did many experimental cultivations within the garden. He proposed the idea of a Glass House. It was built in 1889 inspired by the famous Crystal Palace of London. It houses many flower shows and is a must-see.

Outside the Lalbagh gate, there are stalls selling fresh fruit juice in the morning. One might wonder, if this was perhaps the spot where Cameron enthusiastically distributed seeds of new vegetables that he grew, to the passing farmers. We do owe him Chayote, a popular vegetable in Karnataka. Stories such as these crop up when one steps out on the streets of this city to listen to the echoes from the past and weave them into an urban narrative.

October 14, 2019
Remembering the great Indian bard
On the 157^th birth anniversary of Rabindranath Tagore we take a moment to remember the polymath as he continues to ignite our creative consciousness and inspires us to see the world from a fresh perspective. KALYANI MAJUMDAR pays homage to the Nobel Laureate.

Published in Free Press Journal; Date: 06.05.2018
On the 157^th birth anniversary of Rabindranath Tagore we take a moment to remember the polymath as he continues to ignite our creative consciousness and inspires us to see the world from a fresh perspective. Kalyani Majumdar pays homage to the Nobel Laureate

“Where the mind is without fear and the head is held high

Where knowledge is free,

Where the world has not broken into fragments…”

These profound words were written by Rabindranath Tagore in 1910, and even today these words remain relevant. Tagore is the only known personality who has penned the national anthem for two countries. The Jana Gana Mana was chosen for India and Aamar Shonar Bangla was selected for Bangladesh.

Tagore believed that humanity was the highest spiritual practice and he believed in the idea of ‘One World’. Thus, it is no wonder that his works have an immense capacity to transcend nationality, religion, geographical regions and has the natural ability to touch every soul. Tagore was one of the prominent faces of the Indian Renaissance. Not only did he changed the landscape of Bengali literature, but also redefined modern Indian art, and presented Indian literature, philosophy and culture to an international audience.

Movie clip from Charulata. The movie is based on Tagore’s novel Noshto neer (broken nest).

The early years

Rabindranath Tagore was born in a highly educated and influential Bengali-Hindu family to Debendranath Tagore and Sarada Devi in Jorasanko Thakur Bari in Calcutta (now Kolkata) in British India in 1861 on the 25^th day of Baisakh, which according to the Gregorian calendar usually falls either on the 7^th or on the 9^th of May. His family owned lands and estates mostly in East Bengal, which later became Bangladesh.

He was never interested in the formal education system that was prevalent at that time and dropped out from school. His interest in art and literature developed from a very young age as his family was progressive and was leading the way in culture, art and literature in Bengal. But it was Rabindranath Tagore, who was destined to shine through as the brightest star among all the Tagores. His father was an extensive traveler and young Tagore travelled with him for months at stretch to different parts of India. These travels left a lasting impression in the young mind of Tagore that found expression later on through his writings.

Tagore with Einstein

A polymath

Rabindranath Tagore did not limit himself to one form of creative expression. Apart from writing poetry, short stories and novels, he was a great essayist, dramatist, song writer, composer and painter. When gramophone was introduced in India, he recorded his songs. He was an exceptionally curious man who wanted to learn as much as was humanly possible in one life. Some of his very popular short stories include Kabuliwalla, Khudita pashan, and Bhikarini.

Apart from his short stories, his novels Ghare Baire (At Home and Outside) and Nastanirh (Broken Nest) were made into fantastic films by none other than Satyajit Ray, the latter was called Charulata. Both had strong female protagonists. It is said that no one understood women as beautifully as Tagore did. In 1913, he became the first non-European to win a Nobel Prize for Geetanjali—a collection of poems that was originally written in Bengali and were translated to English by Tagore. He never stopped exploring new avenues of self-expression. Tagore was in his sixties when he started painting. He was not formally trained in fine art, but that did not stop him from pursuing painting and he used his sensibilities and visual vocabulary to develop a distinct style of his own.

A global phenomenon

Tagore was inspired by both Eastern and Western philosophies. As an avid traveler, he had a keen understanding of different cultures and till his last days even with his failing health, he continued with his travels. He had visited around thirty countries in his lifetime, including Japan, Mexico, United States, and England to name a few. He wanted to spread his idea of ‘One World’ and gave lectures in universities in different countries. He was on a constant quest to facilitate a dialogue between the East and the West based on concepts of humanity, freedom and creative expression. He met some of the world’s greatest minds including Albert Einstein and shared ideas with them.

An educationist

Tagore’s pursuit to impart knowledge without the barriers of nation, geography, race or religion continued as he went on to set up a school at Santiniketan with the aim to focus on humanity and its creative expressions based on a Guru-Shishya method of schooling system. His father had bought a large stretch of land around 136 km from Kolkata and had established an ashram with a temple. Tagore shifted there in 1901 and set up an educational institution that was experimental. The classes were held under trees, close to nature. Later on, he turned it into the Visva Bharati University.

The personal tragedies

In Tagore’s life he had to confront several deaths of his near and loved ones. He lost his mother when he was very young and he found comfort when he identified his mother’s love in nature. But then the untimely death of his sister-in-law, Kadambari Devi, left him devastated. She was his muse and an anchor for the budding writer that he was, then. The loss was reflected in many of his stories, songs and poetry. Between 1902 and 1918 he lost his wife, father, son and two daughters. Despite facing these personal tragedies in his life, Tagore never lost the optimism that life had to offer. Instead of drowning into the sea of sorrows he channeled his energy towards creative pursuits.

It was on 7th August 1941, that Tagore breathed his last. He died in Jorasanko Thakur Bari, the place where he was born and had his first tryst with writing. Tagore wrote a poem Aaji hote shoto borsho pore (100 years from now), wherein, he was curious to know who would be his readers after 100 years. Perhaps, when he wrote that poem, he didn’t know that even after 76 years since Tagore’s demise, he continues to live through his writing, music and ideas in the collective consciousness of people from around the world.
October 13, 2019
The ‘spirit’ of America

From its humble beginnings to becoming a magnificent spirit, we embark on a quest to understand and celebrate the true ‘spirit’ of bourbon.

Text: Kalyani Majumdar

Published in Liquid (a bi-monthly magazine) pdf file of the pages ; Date: Nov-Dec 2013

Maker’s Mark, Kentucky straight Bourbon; Picture credit: Maker’s Mark

Mark Twain’s famous quote, “If I cannot drink bourbon and smoke cigars in heaven then I shall not go”, speaks volume about the all American spirit—bourbon. So, why is bourbon considered the native spirit of America? The answer lies in the American history itself, as bourbon is closely entangled with the story of United States of America, and has been an active catalyst in the political and economic struggle that created the nation. And, it is a fact that very few whisky drinkers outside the United States of America know the process of how Bourbon is made, and its difference from other whiskies of the world—in terms of its taste, colour and ingredients. It all began with the early settlers who travelled from England, Ireland, Scotland, Germany, France and Spain in the hope of making it big in the promising land. Along with them came their many skills, and distilling was one of them. The primary grain that farmers in the new land were growing was corn, and it was transported from the west of the Allegheny Mountains to the east for trading purposes. The horses could carry only a limited amount of grain on the mountainous and difficult terrain, so, converting the grain into whiskey was more profitable for these local farmers. But, in 1791, Congress levied excise taxes on all distilled spirits. And, the taxes levied by the central government escalated a feeling of injustice amongst the farmers of the west and led to a revolution that is known as the Whiskey Rebellion of 1794. Protests continued and many small-time distillers from the British colonies moved towards Kentucky, as the land was fertile to grow corn, and it was not until 1803 that the tax was repealed by Thomas Jefferson—the third president of USA. And, in 1964 the U.S. Congress recognised bourbon as America’s Native Spirit.

The spirit Bourbon when poured in a glass has the colour of the sunset, and has distinctly oaky, woody notes coupled with a sweet and smooth taste, with flavours of vanilla and caramel, and is savoured perfectly on the rocks or with water. Unlike other whiskies, bourbon is aged in barrels that are for one-time use only, and the oak is charred, giving the liquor richness, spice and its brownness. As a result of its strong oak flavour, bourbon makes a great cocktail because it is not muted by any number of mixes. When making bourbon, the only thing that can be added is water and that too to bring down the proof, whereas other whisky makers can add colours and flavours. Interestingly, there are strict guidelines laid by the Federal Government, as to what could be called ‘bourbon’. For instance, the label cannot say ‘Kentucky Bourbon’ if it is not distilled in Kentucky, and it cannot be called ‘bourbon’ if it is not distilled in the United States. Also, it must contain at least 51 per cent corn in the fermented grain mash, and it must be aged for a minimum of two years, in new American white oak barrels that have been charred on the inside. It is believed that around 80 per cent of the flavour of bourbon whiskey comes from the oak barrels used to store them in, and temperature plays an important

role in the final product. The premium bourbon whiskey labels are usually distilled in small batches and the main ingredients in making bourbon traditionally are corn, rye and barley. But, there are bourbons that replace rye with wheat. While talking about the true American spirit, it would be a travesty if we don’t mention the Maker’s Mark Distillery that has been recognised as ‘the world’s oldest operating bourbon whisky distillery’ by Guinness World Records. And, Maker’s Mark is the only bourbon that spells ‘whisky’ without an ‘e’ on their bottles, clearly, displaying the Scottish lineage of the family. Robert Samuels was a farmer by trade, and made Kentucky whisky only for personal use and close friends. He had arrived in Kentucky in the year 1780 and insisted on spelling whisky the Scottish way. Till 1840, the Samuels family was not commercial producers of bourbon. It was only when his grandson T. W. Samuels constructed a distillery at Samuels Depot, Kentucky that they started to produce bourbon commercially. But, the Maker’s Mark (warehouse image) that we know of today was created by Bill Samuels Sr., as he wanted to produce a bourbon without the bitterness, and so he did. In 1954, he made the first 19 barrels of whisk(e)y, using limestone water from the distillery’s spring-fed lake and a mash consisting of corn, barley and soft, red, gentle winter wheat. And, bourbon was rediscovered. Fifty years later, his son Bill Samuels, Jr. introduced Maker’s 46, a handcrafted, full-bodied bourbon without any bitterness, and it begins when fully matured Maker’s Mark is emptied from the barrel so that 10 seared French oak staves can be affixed to the sides. Then, Maker’s Mark, which is made with red winter wheat for a smooth taste, is put back in the barrel and aged for several more months, allowing the natural caramel, vanilla and spice flavours released by the staves to enhance the end product. Maker’s Mark bottles are easily known for their wax seal and each bottle is individually sealed to this day. Most bourbon whiskies are named after familial legends and every bottle narrates a story of the iconic bourbon that it is. Jim Beam has its own share of legends, and this bourbon was started by Jacob Beam in 1795. The Boehm family from Germany landed in America in 1740, and would later change their name to Beam and the rest as we know is history. The Beam family created one of the world’s finest and best-selling bourbons, and also a brand that has come to be a prominent presence all over the world including India. Jim Beam

also creates small-batch bourbons for example, Knob Creek®, Basil Hayden’s®, Booker’s® and Baker’s® that are each handcrafted from their own special, time-honoured recipes in limited quantities, and is aged somewhere between six to eight years. In 2011, Fred Noe’s personal addition to the Beam collection, the Jim Beam® Devil’s Cut®, is made from the rich whiskey trapped inside the barrel wood after they’re emptied. This barrel-treated extract is blended with 6 YO Jim Beam® bourbon and bottled at 90 proof. The result is a robust, premium bourbon with deep colour, aroma and character. As aforementioned, bourbon because of its distinct taste can be a great mixer for cocktails, the brand that comes to mind is Wild Turkey. Although the Ripy Brothers’ distillery was already
making bourbon whiskey for a long time, it was only in 1940 that Wild Turkey Bourbon got its name from a distillery executive during an annual Wild Turkey hunting trip. Try cocktails such as the 56 Julep that contains Wild Turkey® 101 Bourbon, or the Black Demure made with Wild Turkey® 81 Bourbon for a sweet palate, or enjoy a spicy cocktail with 1873 Manhattan—a wonderful concoction of Wild Turkey® 101 Bourbon with Carpano Antica Vermouth and Orange Curaçao. Buffalo Trace Bourbon Whiskey is another one to look out for, and one should consider themselves lucky if they can get their hands on a 15 YO Pappy Van Winkle, another Kentucky classic. So, next time you go for a drink, try this brilliant amber-coloured whiskey, and roll it in your mouth and enjoy the myriad flavours in every sip. Cheers!

October 12, 2019
Why Oise in Northern France is a revelation

Even though Oise in Northern France, not far from Paris is usually missing from most travel itinerary, it is a revelation as KALYANI MAJUMDAR found out after visiting this picturesque place with its landscape, people and history.

Published in Free Press Journal; Date: 01.04.2018; My article has been translated by a French Magazine Courier International. Click here to read it in French

The serene beauty of Sacy-le-Petit in Oise; Image credit: Kalyani Majumdar

As I bicycled my way through the expansive undulating green flatland on both sides of the road that met the blue sky, it seemed like an endless horizon. When I decided to undertake immersive travelling through volunteering on sustainable and organic farms across France, I had no idea what was in store for me here in Oise.

Digging into the history

The geographic location of Oise in Picardy region is strategic to many important events in history as it has always been the passage to Paris and thus played an important role in communication during the two World Wars. Occupied from September 1914 to March 1917, ravaged by the battles of 1918, this peaceful region has had its share of bloodshed and war.

It was also the first French department to be liberated, and even the signing of the Armistice took place in Compiègne Forest in Oise on 11 November 1918. Moreover, this region is also associated with the sugar embargo of the 19th century. During the Napoleonic war in the 1800s, the British had blocked the French trade routes with the Caribbean Islands which led to massive shortage of sugar in France. As a solution, Napoleon I introduced sugar beet to counter the sugar embargo. The fertile lands of Oise grew it in abundance and the region grew rich. Whether you are a history enthusiast or a nature lover, there is something here for everyone.

Unmissable dungeon

Donjon de Vez; Image credit: Kalyani Majumdar

Located in the middle of Oise, Donjon de Vez is hard to miss with its imposing grey structure that is surrounded by lush green landscape. It is a medieval dungeon dating back to Gallo-Roman period. Initially, it was a structure mainly made of wood and stone that was built to protect the Gauls against the invasions by the Barbarians, of which nothing is left today. In 1214, Raoul Ducheim, who later Latinised his name and came to be known as d’ Estrees, re-planned, fortified and restored the structure.

He added the three-storied living quarters, some of which still remains. In 1360, his great-grandson Jehan de Vez added the pentagonal-shaped tower. The terrace consists of machicolations and perhaps it was the primary defense system. At its present state, it is maintained by Caroline and Francis Briest. Because of their efforts they have given a new lease of life to the structure. It showcases permanent art installations—sculptures, paintings and stained glass artworks. Especially on a nice sunny day one could easily spend few hours at the Vez.

Sacy-le-Petit

The expansive flatland in Sacy-le-Petit; Image credit: Kalyani Majumdar

Sacy-le-Petit is a commune in Oise and dates back to pre-historic and Roman period. One can either drive down from Paris or board a train from Paris to Pont-Sainte-Maxence. There are taxis available at the station. The winding roads are dotted with houses made of red bricks mostly. The villages of Picardy region has a distinct culture and architectural style that can be seen in this commune as well. Before visiting this place while looking through images I had come across a photograph from 1940, of an abandoned French tank sitting on a farmland in Sacy-le-Petit, being inspected by the Germans.

It is the same commune, yet its serene beauty belies the gruesome bloodshed that this region has seen. From May to July would be the best time to visit this region when the flowers are in full bloom in the gardens, and farm lands are green. Sacy-le-Petit is majorly an agricultural area. There are inns and hotels available here for a comfortable stay. The popular places to visit nearby includes Compiègne.

Chateau de Sacy

Chateau de Sacy; Image credit: Kalyani Majumdar

I was fortunate to volunteer at the Chateau de Sacy in Sacy-le-Petit during the same week as the festival of L’Oise Verte et Bleu, L’événement Grandeur. It is a festival to celebrate and discover the culture of Oise that includes outdoor activities, local culinary feasts and so on. Chateau de Sacy is situated in the middle of a large organic garden and is surrounded by a lovely collection of tall trees. The chateau is steeped in history and is closely linked to the history of Sacy-le-Petit. In the 19th century, Claude-François and Madeleine-Félicité Dupressoir had decided to take over this house and brought along things that were dear to them from their old castle, items such as, woodwork, trumeau, fireplaces and plates, the balustrade Louis XIV.

Later on, as the region became rich by growing sugar beet during the sugar embargo they turned the two farms and a garden into a chateau. The current occupant is Hermine Williams, who inherited the house and is a descendant of Madeleine-Félicité and Claude-François Dupressoir. There are organised tours of the Chateau de Sacy that should not be missed. Cycling and walking are the best way to see the sights and mingle with the friendly locals. Every weekend there is a flea market nearby, and is a great opportunity to immerse into the local culture.

Perhaps the fact that this region of France has remained free from tourist traps, that it is still in its pristine form. For me, even now, Oise is embedded in my memory. It still continues to stir my imagination as I can still feel the wind in my hair and remember the intriguing stories that I have heard, some of which are now part of my story.

October 11, 2019
Yoga shows the way

As Yoga mats with different colours are ready to be rolled out around the world, on the International Day of Yoga, KALYANI MAJUMDAR, explores the incredible journey of Yoga through the ages.

Published in Free Press Journal; Date: 17.06.2018

Whether it is Delhi, Mumbai, New York or any other city in the world, these days it is a common sight to see people walking around with sling bags, over their shoulders in a variety of patterns, holding their yoga mats. And, the phenomenal popularity of this ancient knowledge is evident from the number of yoga studios mushrooming around the world. Unfortunately, with yoga being a billion dollar industry now, it is not uncommon to find new styles of yoga being introduced every other day. Hence, it has become even more important to create awareness among people for the real understanding of the ancient roots of yoga, and its philosophies.

A step towards the right direction was taken back in December 11, 2014, when United Nation decided to dedicate 21st June as the International Day of Yoga, thanks to the initiative of the Indian Prime Minister, Narendra Modi. This will not only help in spreading awareness, but also, provide a platform for the organisations, institutes and practitioners that are dedicated in imparting the authentic system of yogic practices, and showcase it to the masses.

United we stand

The word ‘yoga’ is derived from the Sanskrit root ‘yuj’, meaning ‘to join’ or ‘to unite’. To put it simply, yoga leads to the union of individual consciousness with that of the universal consciousness, and thus, creating a perfect harmony of the body and mind, with nature. It is a subtle science and should not be limited by calling it a set of exercises, it is rather a very subtle process to control and focus, one’s energy in a particular direction. Thousands of years ago, when yoga originated in India, it was mostly practised by sages and monks. Eventually, some great practitioners of yoga helped in the spreading of this ancient knowledge around the world, and they were, Swami Sivananda and his disciple Swami Vishnudevananda, T. Krishnamacharya, B.K.S Iyengar, Shri Yogendra, and so on.

World beyond boundaries

In 1893, Swami Vivekananda had landed on American soil after a long voyage, to give his famous speech in Chicago, wherein, he introduced Indian philosophy and heritage, to the world. Then in 1920, Paramhansa Yogananda, went to the United States. His book Autobiography of a Yogi, introduced the concepts of meditation and Kriya Yoga to the westerners.

Fast forward to 1957, Swami Vishnudevananda, arrived in San Francisco and rose to be one of the most popular Yoga teacher in the West. He founded the Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Centers, headquartered in Montreal, one of the largest networks of Yoga schools in the world. For those, who would like a deeper understanding of Yoga, The Complete Illustrated Book of Yoga by Swami Vishnudevananda is a wonderful book to read.

Another name to be reckoned with, when it comes to spreading Yoga in the West, is B.K.S Iyengar. His teaching technique focused on body alignment and commonly used props such as, blocks and belts. In 1966, B.K.S. Iyengar’s book, Light on Yoga was published. By the 70s, yoga and spiritual teachings were spreading in the West like a wildfire.

At the UN Headquarters

Coming back to 2018, the United Nations, Headquarters in New York is gearing up to celebrate the International Day of Yoga. It has scheduled several yoga asana classes, lectures on yogic philosophies and presentations. This year, Sivananda Yoga session at the UN, will be taught by Swami Paramananda. He is the leading Hatha Yoga Teacher at the Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Center in New York, and the Sivananda Yoga Ranch, which he also manages. When asked about the benefits of practising yoga, he said, “The regular practice of Yoga enables one to experience a deeper and more subtle dimension of oneself. A space which is always peaceful and positive, and is completely independent of external circumstances. So, as we become more aware of that treasure within, it reduces anxiety, anger, and jealousy. Daily practice of yoga, does not just make you healthier, stronger and more flexible, but also, it frees you from all the different causes of suffering. Don’t wait! Start yoga, today!”

What you seek is seeking you!

While talking to several yogis and yoginis from all over the world, it is interesting to see how yoga practitioners are making it a better world, bit by bit. Leticia Ruiz, from Mexico is a Yoga practitioner and the associate owner, at the Solaris Yoga School in San Luis Potosi, Mexico. She says, “Yoga came into my life in my early 20s. At the beginning, I only got to know the physical part of it, and gradually came to know the philosophy that changed my way of viewing the world and brought happiness in my life. During my training, my first students were cancer patients and that motivated me to learn more. Nowadays, I am also leading a volunteer group of yoga teachers for cancer patients at a local hospital.”

Carl Codling, from London is a yoga practitioner and teacher. While sharing his yogic journey, he stated, “Yoga for me, was a profound healing process, I arrived at the practice looking to both get in shape and to learn some simple relaxation techniques to help deal with stress. I soon found however, that twisting and stretching my body in to these strange new positions was also helping me to confront and release a lot of pent up emotion and baggage from way back in my past. Now, a few years down the road, this is a primary driving force behind being a yoga instructor: To help others face and move beyond their demons.”

The path to yoga is different for different people. Sometimes one might find yoga on their own, and sometimes it is introduced by others, like, how it happened with Kaushlendra Kumar Thakur, as he shared his story, “Physically I was active since my collage days. I was boxing at district level, swimming, windsurfing and so on. But, I realised that all these sports involve a lot of aggression, which eventually became a part of my life. I thank my father and elder sister, for suggesting yoga to me, that’s when I started my journey.” Thakur teaches yoga at SwaSwara in Gokarna, India. He added, “Bending your body is not as important as the bending of your mind, it has often been misinterpreted in the West. You cannot control what goes on, outside. But, you can always control what goes on, inside.”

Newbies, come here!

Once you start with your daily yoga practices, you will eventually realise that you cannot leave yoga confined to the yoga-mat. But at the same time you will also realise that investing on a good yoga-mat is important — thickness, grip and most importantly, if you are clinging on to your mat, afraid that you might slip, then it is not the mat for you. Also, hydrating yourself is important, hence, buy an eco-friendly water bottle that you can refill.

Be patient and compassionate towards yourself and as you progress in yoga, it will reflect in your daily actions, diet, behaviour and you will become more blissful. On that note, just close your eyes and take a deep breath and relax.

October 10, 2019
Printmaking in Bengal

The ongoing exhibition at Project 88 on Prints from Bengal: Modernism in Colonial India explores the process of printmaking in Bengal and its role in understanding the socio-political climate in British India of the early to mid-20^th century. Kalyani Majumdar brings the story.

Published in Free Press Journal; Date: 10.06.2018

Ramkinkar Baij, Untitled, Woodcut on Paper, 5 x 7.5 inch

An active art space now, Project 88 was once a century-old metal printing press, situated in Colaba, Mumbai. So, when the art gallery decided to organise an art show on prints from Bengal, it came full circle with its own history. The exhibition explores the nuances involved in printmaking as an art form, by some of the stalwarts from the art world who changed the modern Indian art scene of the twentieth century.

Art as an expression

Artists have often used art to express their observations especially during the time of unrest, human suffering and oppression. Hence, when one looks at the series of prints exhibited at Project 88, it provides a keen understanding of the social life of Bengal and also the political scene in colonial India. The artists whose prints are exhibited at the gallery are, Gaganendranath Tagore (1867 – 1938), Mukul Chandra Dey (1895 – 1989), Ramendranath Chakravorty (1902-1955), Ramkinkar Baij (1906 – 1980) and Rani (Dey) Chanda (1912 – 1997). They were all born in the undivided Bengal in British India and were all associated to Santiniketan.

Ramendranath Chakravarty, Untitled, 1935, Woodcut

They grew up during a period when Bengal was going through a lot of political and social upheavals. These artists saw the unrest caused due to partition of Bengal in 1905 on communal lines. Followed by the shifting of the capital from Calcutta to Delhi and its repercussions, they played their part in the Swadeshi movement and attempted to find an Indian identity in colonial India. Apart from Gaganendranath Tagore, who died in 1938, the other artists also saw the, Bengal famine, communal violence followed by the partition of Bengal and the Indian independence. These events had great impact on the artists’ works. Also, all the five artists were highly inspired by the 19th century Bengal Renaissance and that too played an important role in how they communicated through their art.

From Bichitra Club to Kala Bhavan

Founded in 1915 by the Tagores in their Jorasankho house in North Kolkata, the primary aim of Bichitra Club was to explore different styles of printmaking and painting. Bichitra, which means, variety, was spearheaded by the three nephews of Rabindranath Tagore — Gaganendranath, Samarendranath and Abanindranath. They had turned the south veranda of the Jorasankho house into a club, fashioned on the concept of an art salon. The club offered classes on printmaking, painting, music, pottery, carpentry and so on. Rabindranath Tagore defined it as the model school and its members and students also had Pratima Devi and Sunayani Devi from the Tagore family as students. It was here that the printmaking techniques were explored in a manner that saw the emergence of woodcuts and lithographs as art forms.

Gaganendranath Tagore, Metamorphoses, 1917, Lithograph on Paper, 17 x 11 inch

The practice of printmaking as a fine art medium became extremely popular with the establishment of Kala Bhavan in 1919. It is the fine arts faculty of the Visva Bharati University, Santiniketan. And, it was none other than Nandalal Bose, a student of Abanindranath Tagore, and also the creator of the logo for Bichitra Club, who made printmaking a popular art form in Kala Bhavana. Ramendranath Chakravorty, Mukul Chandra Dey, Rani Dey (Chanda), Ramkinkar Baij were all trained at Santiniketan.

Tagore’s satirical depiction of urban life

Artist Gaganendranath Tagore had special interest in lithography, and even went on to set up his own lithographic press in 1917. He was anti-colonial and had no qualms to express it openly through his art. His prints exhibited at the gallery shows, caricatures that made satiric commentaries on colonial Indian urban life. One of his works on display, titled, Metamorphosis: Don’t disturb me now, I am about to become a sab show a Bengali babu pretending to be a European, as he is shown wearing a trouser on top of his dhuti. Through his humour, he would often take on the corrupt politicians and showcase the hypocrisy that existed in the Indian society. Even today, Tagore is considered one of the finest and influential modernist printmakers, India ever had.

Depiction of rural and tribal life

The prints by Chakravorty, Dey, Baij and Chanda at the exhibition, depicts the rural and tribal (santhal) life. Ramendranath Chakravorty began his formal art education in Government School of Art, Calcutta/Kolkata in 1919, but in two years he left for Santiniketan for the newly established Kala Bhavan. It was here that he found his mentor, Nandalal Bose. Chakravorty’s ability to capture the rural Bengal life can be seen clearly in his wood engravings. His work, Untitled, woodcut from 1935 is one such example. His works often expressed a duality, wherein, it finds influences from both the revivalist movement in Bengal and the Swadeshi Movement that was rising during that period. However, he was always keen on exploring techniques prevalent in Japan and Europe.

Mukul Dey, Filling the Pitchers, Hand Coloured Dry point Etching on Paper, 6 x 8 inch

Mukul Chandra Dey, was one of the prominent member of the Bichitra Club. In 1916, he went to US to learn the technique of dry-point etching. He came back to Santiniketan in the 1920s. His exhibit at the gallery titled, Filling the Pitcher looks hand-painted as the artist has used a variety of tints and smudges to define his subjects.

Ramkinkar Baij went to Santiniketan to become a sculptor and painter, however he also found interest in the process of printmaking. He connected easily with the tribal lifestyle and throughout his lifetime his works revolved around his tribal subjects. In one of his prints at the show, the Vande Mataram chant is inscribed on the top along with a partially visible face of a man and on the foreground the print has jagged uneven broken shapes. His monochromatic woodcuts has dynamic characteristics, combined with a certain ruggedness that makes his prints stand out from the rest.

Rani (Dey) Chanda, was Mukul Dey’s sister. It was Rabindranath Tagore who encouraged her to pursue art. She went to Santiniketan and studied painting, music and dancing. She was imprisoned for anti-British activities for a while. In 1932, Mukul Dey published a portfolio of 25 linocuts by his sister. Her prints are a beautiful contrast of black-and-white compositions creating a dreamlike effect of rural Bengal. Whether it’s the huts in moonlit night or a boat riding the waves, she created magic with her perfect lines and balance of black and white.

Event Detail:

When: On till June 16

Timings: 11 AM to 7 PM

Venue: Project 88, Ground Floor, B.M.P. Building, Narayan A Sawant Rd, Azad Nagar, Colaba, Mumbai

(Image credit courtesy: The artist, Galerie 88 & Project 88, Mumbai)

October 10, 2019
Art Deco: The Mumbai connection

When a design movement called Art Deco flourished between the two World Wars in Europe, it made its way to Mumbai around the same time and found many takers in the city. Kalyani Majumdar delves into the story.

Published in Free Press Journal; Date: 03.09.2017

Did you know that Mumbai has the second largest number of Art Deco buildings in the world right after Miami? For most people, it comes as a surprise. Possibly the reason could be that Mumbai is mostly synonymous with the Gateway of India that is an Indo-Saracenic architecture or the famous CST (formerly the Victoria Terminus), a neo-Gothic architecture. So, where are the Art Deco buildings? There is no doubt that Mumbai cityscape is dotted with iconic architectural masterpieces from the colonial period, and walking around South Mumbai is like visiting a museum displaying different architectural styles. However, if you pay attention on the built structures while walking around the Oval Maidan, Marine Drive and Colaba it is not difficult to spot these Art Deco buildings with their signature design elements such as symmetry, geometric designs and decorative motifs on the façade. Curiously, one might even wonder what it was about Art Deco-style that it found so many connoisseurs in the city. To understand that we need to dive into the history of Art Deco.

A movement that started in France

Art Deco derived its name from the French words “Arts Décoratifs”. It was an exhibition that was held in Paris in 1925 called the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes (International Exposition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts). To get selected for the exhibition the works had to be modern that was without the influence of past design-styles.

Originally, the exposition was to take place in 1915, but was postponed due to the First World War. To a great extent the War had a strong influence on Art Deco’s popularity. The devastation and loss due to the war had left everyone disillusioned of the future. The horrors of war were being expressed through many new art movements that came up around the 1920s such as Cubism, Surrealism and Fauvism. Literary works by Ernest Hemingway and Scott Fitzgerald give us a fair idea of the society of that time.

With socio-political changes taking place in Europe and around the world, the exposition was a success. Art Deco found many takers as there was something very appealing about this style that was modern and had moved away from the formal design styles that was prevalent till then. Post World War, the world was looking for optimism and that was exactly what Art Deco represented with its simple geometric lines, decorative motifs that brought in inspirations from around the world, and the use of vibrant colours. It was heralding the machine age with the use of technology.

The designs could be replicated easily, thus bringing down the manufacturing costs along with the introduction of stainless steel, plastics and other unconventional materials. Apart from architecture, this design movement influenced jewellery, automobiles, and furniture designs as well. In the world of architecture Art Deco was fast becoming popular all around the world with the US giving the world the two iconic Art Deco buildings of that era, the Chrysler Building and the Empire State Building. As Art Deco rose in popularity the world over, it had surely become an international movement from its French origins.

Art Deco found its way to Mumbai

The time when Art Deco was taking over America, especially Miami, another city across the globewas fast becoming the second home for Art Deco to flourish in. It was none other than Mumbai. It was on the world map as an important port city for British India. Every new trend that was prevalent in the West found a home in Mumbai. In the 1920s the well-heeled and educated Indians from the city that were making frequent trips to Europe brought back the Art Deco style with them back home.

Between 1920s and 1940s Art Deco graced the South Mumbai landscape, especially the residential buildings on Marine Drive that came up on the newly reclaimed land around the same time, thanks to the Backbay Land Reclamation Scheme. With its optimistic and modern designs that had moved away from the imprint of colonial design-styles such as the Gothic and the Victorian, the Mumbai home owners wanted to do up their properties in the Art Deco style. Art Deco was vibrant and had a global appeal. It was the trend everyone wanted to be part of. Thus, in India just like in the rest of the world, Art Deco made its presence in a big way.

Apart from the geometric patterns and the need for symmetry, one also observes nautical elements being part of the Art Deco buildings in Mumbai. One can see the new age design elements on buildings such as the Eros Cinema right across Churchgate station that was completed in 1937, or the decorative motifs on the façade of the iconic Regal Cinema in Colaba that was opened to public in 1933. Another notable Art Deco building is on the Mahatma Gandhi Road in Fort — The New India Assurance Building. It has bas reliefs depicting rural life in India, but what catches your attention first are the two huge statues on the façade that appears of Egyptian origin. It is indeed a long list of beautiful Art Deco buildings that exist in the city.

So, next time when walking on the streets of Mumbai do pay attention to the buildings that you pass by, you might stumble upon an Art Deco hidden somewhere in the urban cluster of high rises that stands as a testimony of the era that was popularly known as the roaring 20s or the Jazz Age.

October 10, 2019