kalyanimajumdar.com

Author: Kalyani Majumdar

  • THE SPACE AROUND THE CORNER

    THE SPACE AROUND THE CORNER

    Text by Kalyani Majumdar | Published in Domus India | 2014 | Photos & Drawings by NilaA Architecture & Urban Design

    Understanding the immediacy of a built form and the need of the place and the area around is the idea behind KONA — a cohesive and dynamic space in the heart of Delhi — that demonstrates a design solution for urban spaces in cities where ambitions and aspirations can be merged.

    Is architecture limited to the built form? What is the fundamental task of architecture? Is it not connected with all the aspects of a human life; how we eat and live? Can architecture provide an inspiring experience for people inside and outside of it, and is it not responsible, at the very least, to its immediate context and inhabitants? These are some of the questions that are tenaciously revisited as the discussions continue globally on the concept of a ‘human city’ in relation to megacities.

    In the last decade Delhi has transformed into a megacity with endless construction of new buildings, shopping malls and offices. With new development ventures such as the ongoing metro project, Delhi is more connected now from all directions than ever before. But this extreme pace of urbanisation of Delhi has thrown open pressing questions and discussions revolving around the role of architects and urban designers to design spaces that are holistic; in other words, something that is sustainable and cohesive.

    With new structures coming up everywhere, what happens to the abandoned buildings that were built once, and now the city has forgotten about? And even as the city struggles to accommodate more people, there are buildings that lay abandoned in prime locations and otherwise; what is the fate of those modern ruins in the present context?

    The exterior view of the corner block that has been converted into KONA

    1, Jor Bagh Market in centralDelhi makes a plausible example in this context. ‘Kona’ in Hindi means corner, and that is precisely the location of this two-storeyed gallery space above a public corridor, in a prime central Delhi location with neighbourhoods such as Golf Links and Lodhi Garden surrounding this quiet and posh residential area. Designed by Delhi-based architect Nishant Lall of NilaA Architecture & Urban Design, KONA was an abandoned space in the corner block of Jor Bagh Market. And now it has been transformed into a community space for collaboration of design, art, architecture and organic farming, thus providing an informal space in the heart of the city that is accessible to all. While there are many examples in the city where abandoned properties have been transformed into commercial setups, those are strictly gentrified. But, not this space. KONA is supported by Inderpal Kochhar of Sewara Group, who is also the owner of the abandoned site that houses this space, and wanted the disused space to cater to creative pursuits of people from across India, and thus KONA came into being.

    For people who grew up in Delhi, Jor Bagh Market in central Delhi needs no introduction as it is known for its book shop, fashion boutiques and shops selling furniture, art ware, handicrafts and collectibles. Jor Bagh residential area was developed around the 1950s and the 60s and KONA is housed in a 1950s era local convenience centre built by the government. 1, Jor Bagh market is a two-storeyed corner block and had a famous restaurant called Mini Mughal and a halwai; both have shifted now to other localities. The ground floor had eight shops, of which only three are presently functioning, and the shopkeepers had living quarters on the first floor. But it has been around five years that the top floor and the terrace have been vacant and have been lying disused, in a dilapidated state. So, when Kona gallery was opened up on the first floor, it was a blank canvas ready to be rethought and revisualised. The structure was upgraded using micro concreting and carbon fibre strengthening of beams; the raw walls have been preserved in their natural state for aesthetic reasons for the pop-up art shows. In fact the ruggedness and raw-look works well for the space, as in an area like Jor Bagh, it stands out amongst the other built forms around. The abandoned shops on the ground floor have been turned into a gallery space along with the first floor. The six interconnected rooms on the first floor that were once living quarters have been connected and redeveloped into smaller gallery spaces. The toilet has been converted into a media room.



    Recycled wooden crates have been used as display props for an exhibition in the L-shape gallery space.

    Recycled wooden crates were used as props for display purposes during the exhibitions and later used as book stacks. The wall space is available to be used as a visual gallery and is open for experimental works in the future.

    The rear screen was made out of cement bags.
    Artists making graffittis on the terrace walls
    The once disused terrace space has been converted into an organic farm

    The space opened in January 2013 with an interdisciplinary pop-up art show. The events and talks are curated by one of the KONA members, Sonya Fatah. In April 2013, a multidisciplinary pop-up art exhibition titled Lateral was curated by Heidi Fichtner with site-specific artworks, painting, sculpture, video, photographs, drawing and a sound installation by artists across three generations. The corner space is largely a platform to promote dialogue amongst professionals from different fields and think, discuss and provide ideas that would act as catalyst in the near future for a new ways to live in urban India. Innovation in the form of juggad (making do) technology can be seen at every step as the exhibition space was refurbished with recycled materials such as the rear screen was made out of cement bags, and bubble wrap was used as screen wrap for uniform lighting for the galleryspace during the shows, and was later used to pack the artworks.

    The space on the first floor above the public corridor is an L-shaped gallery space. And the entrance to the gallery space was renovated with leftover building materials as stone slabs and crushed bricks gravel beds. The entry to the gallery on the first floor is from rear of the building and the entry court acts as visual connector between all the floors. The first floor also has an interactive open space. The terrace of the corner block has been converted into a space for organic farming. Every Sunday, KONA is turned into a space for organic farmers’ market and apart from selling organic fresh farm food, KONA is also aiming at helping horticulturalist from the city to convert their balconies or gardens into small-scale vegetable beds.

    Sketches by the architects.

    The corner block in Jor Bagh market is a perfect illustration of how a modern ruin need not be erased; rather, it can be remodeled and reused. The architect manages the challenging task of not overdoing and has exercised restraint throughout the design intervention, as there was an original context already existing and to rebuild upon it was more like recycling an architectural space to provide alternative experimental platform. KONA is indeed a unique participatory space and is housed in a posh area, yet from the outside it is unintimidating. However, the challenge for the sustainability of such projects is entwined with economics, as even the most innovative ways to display, design and organise an interactive and creative space would cost something, no matter how inexpensive it might seem at face value. But, for now, this space in Jor Bagh is a stepping ‘corner’ for a design and lifestyle revolution in the megacity, Delhi, and bringing it closer to the concept of a “human city”.

  • An anthology on women in Indian photography

    An anthology on women in Indian photography

    By Kalyani Majumdar; Published in Domus India magazine; News section; 2014

    Group Portrait, circa 1875

    The advent of photography brought many changes especially in terms of how we document the historical, social, gender and political aspects of a society in which the image stems from. Prior to photography, it was only painting of portraits that could capture an aspect of a person or place or culture that was closest to what reality was, but it was nowhere close to the accurateness of photographs. As it provided a real-time image, it was more objective than subjective, and many preferred the exactness of science.

    The British in India introduced many important technological/scientific innovations and photography was one of them. In fact, as early as the 1850s photography was available in India. In a recently held exhibition by Tasveer in collaboration with Saffron Art threw light on an absolutely rare aspect of Indian photographs — the women. Aptly titled Subjects & spaces, women in Indian photography showcases rare photographs taken from the 1850s to 1960s, of women from different backgrounds posing for the latest device of that time — the camera.

    The reclining lady, c 1870

    Initially photographs were mostly clicked by the British for archiving purposes, and some photographed as amateurs for their personal albums to take back to England as memories of India and its people. Mostly the portraitures were clicked inside studios with elaborate backgrounds of architectural elements and the postures were mostly a reflection of Western style and design. These images were meant for displaying at home or private spaces rather than for public display. The collection shows an interesting aspect of how these women interacted with the camera with a stranger behind the lens clicking those photographs, especially during the 18th and the 19th century Indian society, where women were mostly behind veils and were not accustomed to meet or talk to strangers, let alone pose for the camera. But, in the image titled Group portrait, c1875 showing a group of presumably Marathi women is quite interesting, as the subjects defy any form of femininity in their posture or even the way they look at the camera, rather they exude dominance and power. It takes a while to spot the little boy standing next to them. Also, one must remember that in the 19th century, it was extremely difficult to photograph large groups of people, getting them to stay still for the long exposure time. A photograph titled Palanquin with bearers; c1860 is an interesting one, as these were the carriages that women used to travel in, so that no one could see them in public spaces. Another image that draws attention is The Reclining lady; c1870 shows an Indian woman posing in a sensuous manner but her face holds a blank expression. Since it has been clicked in a studio, one can see in the background the column and the posture has a hint of Western influence in the photograph.

    Ladies in a bathing ghat, c 1870

    Other works such as a scene from the movie set Dahej, 1950 shows women performing their respective roles in the household; another scene from Boot Polish, 1954 portrays the woman as a mother. Also, a photograph worth mentioning is a demure image of Maharani Gayatri Devi, c 1945 that reflects the image of a woman that was acceptable to the Indian sensibility of the mid-20th century society in terms of her expression and attire. Looking at the group photos; Ladies in a bathing ghat, c1870, Group portrait, c1880 and First lady cyclist, 1920 describes the country and its people in real time and makes one wonder how life in those days was for the women of India. The images from this exhibition are for sale, and are sold as a limited edition boxed folio of Archival Pigment Prints. (www.tasveerarts.com)

  • The unaged liquor in a bottle

    The unaged liquor in a bottle

    The unaged liquor Vodka-making is a legacy of the Russians and with the launch of two new vodkas in the Indian market—Russian Spirit and Kruto—MIR Spirits is aiming to change the way the world sees, drinks and experiences vodka.

    By Kalyani Majumdar; Published in Liquid magazine; March-April 2014

    These days anyone engaged in charged-up conversation uttering either “Ukraine” or “Russia” is most certainly talking about the current political crisis that has engulfed the two countries. But at Liquid we are referring to these two countries from a very different context, and however “volatile” our discussion may be it is merely incidental to the alchemical nature of our subject. One could guess by now that we are talking about none other than the post-modern drink—vodka.

    The Indian consumers are well aware of their vodkas and India is already a lucrative market for some of the leading and well known vodka brands such as Absolut, Grey Goose to name a few on the list. And to keep up with the Russian adage There cannot be too much vodka, there can only be not enough vodka the Indian vodka drinker is always happy to get more brands to choose from. This year with the launch of Russian Spirit and Kruto, Indian vodka drinkers have every reason to rejoice. During the launch of the two vodka brands Roman Tallis, President of Russian Spirit Inc. said, “India is an exciting market in the global scheme of things. With its pre dominantly young population, we thought what greater tribute to this wonderful country than to globally launch Russian Spirit and Kruto here. Both our brands set new product benchmarks in their respective categories. It is not a surprise that the response so far has been nothing less than fantastic.” MIR Spirits, importer of Russian Spirit Inc. in India has brought these two vodkas that are created from 300-year-old Russian recipes combined with the finest wheat grains from the ecologically pure region in Ukraine.

    The distillation process involves and activates carbon filtration practice which ensures the highest level of purity, desired pH balance and clarity of taste. These grains are then used to create rectified ethyl alcohol. This is meticulously distilled before being combined with untouched water sourced from an aquifer 800 metres underground. Next, the spirit undergoes filtration through activated birch charcoal—as early as the eighteenth century the Russians have been filtering and purifying the alcohol with charcoal—Ural mountain quartz and polypropylene filter that is only one-micron wide. And finally, the alcohol is run through a pure gold membrane filter. This important step enriches the vodka with gold ions. After this absolute fanciful and delicate vodka-making ritual it would be a travesty if this creation is not drunk in the good old Russian fashion—neat. Na Zdoroyve!

    Russian Spirit

    For anyone who is aware of vodka, one must know how difficult it is to express this limpid liquid that is devoid of colour, bouquet, aroma and other high-nosed characteristics that one experiences while drinking its darker-oaken cousins. At the blind vodka tasting session it helps if one follows the rules of what other alcoholic tasting sessions demands, but in reverse in order to figure out the superior or premium vodka, reason being in case of vodka the purer the vodka the more colourless, odourless and tasteless it would be. Hence it is recommended that one must drink Russian Spirit neat and non-chilled so that it is a revelation when, as it makes its way through the mouth till it hits the throat, one is surprised by its smooth finish and warm and silky entry with an almost non-existent bite (it does not burn) which is a rare trait in vodkas that are available in India. The bottle that encapsulates this 15 times distilled vodka is of frosted glass with a portrait of Peter the Great himself on one side and St Petersburg on the other side. It is believed that during the times of Peter the Great drinking in Russia had reached unprecedented levels which was probably because the great reformer needed considerable financing for the development of his country and since alcohol drinking was legalised money by way of tax was rolling in through vodka sales. Unlike other popular brands from the West providing flavoured vodkas, Russian Spirit does not align to that idea as it is not how the Russians drink their vodka. And, keeping alive that tradition Russian Spirit is available in its pure nonflavoured state. With a price tag of only `3,500 for a 750ml bottle—available only in Mumbai for now, but soon it will be available in Delhi and other major cities—it is a liquid that you might like to introduce yourself to.

    Kruto

    In Russian the word Kruto means cool and the packaging of Kruto vodka exemplifies youthful vibrancy—the frost glass bottle with fiery red band mentioning Kruto signifies the self-indulgent generation. The Kruto Original Vodka is distilled nine times for a smooth, delicate spirit that has a touch of floral and toasted honey notes from the wheat, great to be used as a base in cocktails. Priced at Rs 1,850 for a 750 ml bottle, it is available presently only at select retail outlets in Mumbai. To celebrate the advent of Kruto we have some refreshing summer cocktails to try out and beat the heat with a contemporary twist.

    Kruto Summer Cocktails

    Sour Apple Martini

    Ingredients:

    • 50 ml Kruto vodka
    • 15 ml Monin green apple
    • 60 ml Apple juice
    • 10 ml Lime juice
    • 8 nos Fresh mint leaves
    • 1 no Fresh green apple (Garnish)

    Method: Add all ingredients along with punctured mint leaves into a Boston shaker over ice. Shake and double strain into a chilled Martini glass. Garnish with thin slices of sour green apple.

    Apple Currant

    Ingredients:

    • 50 ml Kruto vodka
    • 15 ml Crème de Cassis/
    • Monin currant
    • 60 ml Apple juice
    • 10 ml Lime juice
    • 10 nos Fresh mint leaves
    • 6 nos Black grapes

    Method: Combine all ingredients in a Boston shaker with muddled mint. Shake and double strain into a studio rock glass over ice. Add black grapes and a lime wedge as garnish.

    Watermelon Martini

    Ingredients:

    • 50 ml Kruto vodka
    • 1 slice Fresh watermelon
    • 1 no Lemon
    • 8 nos Fresh mint leaves
    • 10 ml Monin watermelon

    Method: Muddle fresh watermelon, mint and lemon wedges in a Boston shaker. Add Monin and Kruto. Shake well with ice and double strain into a chilled Martini Glass. Garnish with a thin slice of watermelon.

  • Art of Living

    Art of Living

    WITH ORIGINAL ARTWORKS AND INTRIGUING HISTORIES TO MATCH, THESE ARE
    THE MOST UNIQUE ART HOTELS AROUND THE WORLD, SAYS KALYANI MAJUMDAR.

    First published in India Today Spice Trove

    PALAIS COBURG’S HISTORIC CASEMATE, NOW USED AS A VENUE FOR EVENTS

    There’s an interesting story about a £200,000 (Rs 1.5 crore) work by Turner-prize winning artist Douglas Gordon displayed on the wall of a restaurant in Glasgow. Attempting to show how real life mirrors cinema, the artist put a neon ‘Empire’ sign in the artwork with a light bulb that was deliberately poorly wired to keep the letter ‘P’ blinking, like the one at Empire Hotel in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1958 film Vertigo. Then, one day, real life intervened and a repairman fixed the flickering bulb, not realising its valuable contribution to art. Mercifully, such a travesty can never be committed in a hotel, where art is the only permanent resident. Welcome to their world.

    THE PALAIS COBURG, VIENNA

    Imagine standing on the same spot in The Palais Coburg hotel where, centuries ago, music composer Johann Strauss performed with his orchestra; such is the glorious history of this hotel that spans six centuries and stands witness to some major events in history. Art, culture and technology cohabit gloriously at The Palais Coburg Hotel Residenz in Vienna, which looks more like an art museum than a hotel with a gleaming neoclassical building and plenty of restored gilt and marble dating back to the mid-19th century. Each of the 35 suites is individually furnished and designed to look traditional but with a contemporary twist replete with antiques, oil paintings and crystal chandeliers. The structure was built in 1840-45 by Duke Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha (1785-1851) on the Brown Bastion—a part of the city’s defenses dating back to the 16th century. Owing largely to the superior construction, a large part of the Renaissance fortification, in particular the casemates, have been preserved for posterity. As you walk through the corridors, the canvases imbue colour to the grand architecture that has been superbly preserved. Where history stands guard, a date with the past is a present for the future.

    BYBLOS ART HOTEL

    SALVADOR DALI’S WINE RED BIG KISS SOFA BYBLOS ART HOTEL AT VILLA AMISTA, VERONA

    Nestled amid the luxuriant expanse of a 20,000 sq m park, the Byblos art hotel Villa Amistà is located just minutes away from the old town of Verona. Two distinctive architectural and decor styles reside at this property. If the classical building is a perfect example of 15th century baroque style; inside breathes the very modern design of architect Alessandro Mendini. Much like a museum, Villa Amista hosts works by brilliant artists from around the world, artists like Mimmo Rotella, Anish Kapoor, Peter Halley and David Tremlett, to name a few. The hotel offers 60 rooms, all piquantly filled with futuristic design furniture and antique-style headboards, accessorized with full-length mirrors with neon-orange and pop-art green insets. The central hall—the most monumental part of the villa–is traditional and dominated by a Venetian chandelier; other rooms beg to copy its elaborate ceiling decoration and murals. Below, however, sit pop art in the shape of poufes and tables. The spa is designed to evoke ancient Pompeii, while the wine cellar is furnished with classical furniture and coordinated with design components and works of contemporary art.

    HENRY JONES ART HOTEL

    A CORRIDOR OF THE HENRY JONES ART HOTEL EXPRESSES DISTINCTIVE AND AVANT GARDE ART WORKS

    Fancy waking up to the sound of clattering boat masts or listening to stories of early settlements as you sip your freshly- brewed Java? Try the Henry Jones art hotel in Tasmania—it’s jam-packed with history and littered with contemporary art. It stands in the very spot from where the town of Hobart began sprouting 200 years ago; a row of historic warehouses from the 1820s and a former jam factory have come together to be transformed into Australia’s first art hotel. An abundance of contemporary Tasmanian art relating to the settlement years in a setting of great historic value allow guests to linger in an era long past. The Oriental and Art installation suites, the restored machinery from the jam factory, the magnificent all-glass atrium get you tripping to another era altogether. The Peacock Terrace, the original home of jam factory founders George and Margaret Peacock, even houses Tasmania’s oldest spiral staircase. On your next visit to Australia, check out the Sydney harbour bridge and Opera House if you must, but don’t forget to check into the Henry Jones Art Hotel.

    ABBEY DE LA BUSSIÈRE, BURGUNDY

    THE HALLWAY AT THE ABBEY DE LA BUSSIÈRE WITH ITS ENDLESS ARCHES

    If the very Monet-like look of Abbey de la Bussière, with its 15-acre park around a pond, weren’t enough, the property also boasts an interesting history. Turns out that it was founded in 1131 by an Englishman named Stephen Harding, who was the third Abbot of Cîteaux, as a spiritual retreat for religious groups and pilgrims. Some 874 years later, another Englishman called Clive Cummings bought it and decided to turn it into a luxurious hotel. The first round of renovation inside the building revealed gorgeous frescoes that have since been meticulously cleaned and restored by experts. The old monks’ cells have been transformed into junior suites and luxury bedrooms, all appropriately named after the greatest Burgundian ecclesiastical monuments. Each room is packed with antique furniture, art and artefacts picked up from auctions. Occasionally, the old abbey also acts as a venue for art classes. Not surprising when you consider that it is situated in an art hub: bang in the heart of Burgundy with its abundant vineyards, chateaus and monasteries and at a half-hour’s drive from the historic towns of Beaune and Dijon, with their medieval cathedrals and art galleries.

    ARTE LUISE KUNSTHOTEL, BERLIN

    THE FACADE OF THE ARTE LUISE KUNSTHOTEL

    From the sculptures that greet you in the lobby to the imaginatively-designed rooms, Arte Luise Kunsthotel is a repository of surprises. Situated near Berlin’s historic Reichstag building, the Spree river and the Brandenburg Gate, this neo-classical residential palace (circa 1825) used to be an artists’ club during the GDR period. In 1994, it was converted into an art hotel. Today, each of the 50 rooms in the hotel—often referred to as a ‘gallery in which you can spend the night’—is an original work of art. That’s because over 50 artists have worked on these rooms, on the invitation of the hotel, creating scenarios that ‘reflect the time, place and situation of the traveller’. The artists receive approximately 5 per cent of the profit from ‘their’ room as payment as well as a number of free night stays. Each room is recommissioned every two to five years. The lobby has eye-popping sculptures by Hans van Meeuwen and a wall piece by Markus Linnenbrink. Profound graffiti in vivid colour illuminates the walls of the stairways. On the ground floor stands an art and events gallery where the hotel hosts readings as part of the International Literary Festival and fashion shows.

    (I wrote this article originally for India Today Spice Trove, special issue, published in 2010.)

  • Elvis Presley birth anniversary: Rocking tribute to the King

    Published in Free Press Journal; Date: 07.01.2018

    As a teenager, Elvis Presley used to hang around at the iconic Beale Street, the hub of the music scene in Memphis. Little did he know then that in few years he would become not only Rock ‘n’ Roll’s biggest star, but also a cultural force of the 50s. Kalyani Majumdar pays tribute to the King.

    Even today Elvis Presley’s soulful voice evoke the same magic that made him a star when the audience heard him on air for the first time. His music, dance moves and persona was something of a shock for the conservative 50’s American society, and it is safe to say that he did pave the way for the rock ‘n’ roll stars of the 60s. “Before Elvis there was nothing,” said John Lennon. That is just how big the Elvis phenomenon was.

    A humble beginning

    Elvis Presley was born on January 8, 1935 in Tupelo, Mississippi to Gladys and Vernon Presley. He had a twin brother who was still born. His parents did several day jobs to get by. On his eleventh birthday he wanted a bicycle and apparently his second choice was a rifle. The bicycle was too expensive and the gun obviously was a bad idea, so his mother got him a guitar instead. In 1948, the family moved to Memphis, and it was here that young Presley got his music influences from. During his teenage years he spent his free time at the black part of Memphis. Beale Street was known for its Blues and Jazz clubs. He would regularly go there to listen to B.B King and other popular black artists of the time. He finished his schooling from Humes High in 1953. He took up a job as a truck driver, but he never quit singing.

    Meteoric rise of Elvis Presley to stardom

    Elvis Presley performing Jailhouse Rock

    In 1954, DJ Dewey Philips played Presley’s version of That’s All Right on his radio show for the first time. It was recorded at the legendary Sun Studio situated at downtown Memphis. After the song was aired the phones won’t stop ringing. The listeners were ecstatic and numerous requests poured in to play the song again. This was only the beginning of Presley’s popularity. In 1956, Presley became a national star. His songs, Heartbreak Hotel, Don’t Be Cruel, Hound Dog, Love Me Tender were all chart toppers. He was unstoppable.  He made his TV appearance with the Dorsey Brothers’ Stage Show and then on The Ed Sullivan Show. After conquering the radio and television, it was his turn to light up the big screen. Love Me Tender released in 1956 did not do that well. However, Jailhouse Rock in 1957 made an impact on the big screen. It had a strong storyline, fantastic songs along with Presley’s signature dance moves. One could even say that the title track of this movie was perhaps the first music video ever made.

    Elvis, the cultural movement

    It was the 1950s when Elvis Presley arrived in the music scene. The American society was conservative then. The demarcation between Black and White people was very stark. Cultural biases were very evident. However, Presley managed to blur that colour line between what was considered Black music and White music. No one before Presley had ever blended African-American R & B with country blues and gospel music, let alone a white Southerner. Unknowingly, he had broken the racial barrier through his music. His dance moves were considered provocative and he exuded sex appeal. He was not conventional and his music did not conform to the norms of that time. He was shaking and stirring the American society. His distinct edgy hairstyle and clothing were becoming a fashion statement for the teenagers. His fame was a clear sign that the youth wanted a change and he was epitome of that change.

    His dance moves were considered provocative and he exuded sex appeal.

    The King had arrived

    People would either like or dislike him, but no one could ignore Elvis Presley. Initially, the popular family television programme, The Ed Sullivan Show had announced that he would not feature Elvis Presley on his show because his music and dance was considered vulgar and was posing a threat to the American society, especially the youth. But seeing the viewership ratings for other shows featuring Presley, Ed Sullivan could not ignore him anymore. However, Presley was shown performing waist up and even then the viewership was phenomenal for that particular episode. Never before had the world seen such hysteria at a music concert. His good looks coupled with his voice made women go frenzy at the sight of him. Teenagers were tattooing his name. America didn’t know what to make of it. Elvis Presley was a phenomenon and was creating the same magic internationally too. Presley was nominated 14 times for Grammy and had won the Grammy three times and was also the recipient of the Grammy Lifetime Achievement Award. He is believed to have sold more than one billion records worldwide, and his American sales alone had earned him gold and platinum awards.

    The U.S Army and Personal Life

    He was at the pinnacle of his music career when in 1958 he had to join the U.S Army. He served his country till 1960. It was also at that time that he met his future wife Priscilla Beaulieu. Post his stint in the army, Presley continued to give hits such as Are You Lonesome Tonight in 1960 and Can’t Help Falling In Love in 1961 to name a few. He married Priscilla in 1967, however the marriage didn’t last long and they divorced in 1972.

    If I can dream

    In 1968, Presley came out with his comeback special with a soul searching and socially conscious song, If I Can Dream. Till this day, it is one of the most powerful and emotional performances by him. It was recorded two months after Martin Luther King Junior’s assassination and it made the lyrics and the song even more relevant for the time.

    Graceland

    In 1957, Presley bought the stately mansion, Graceland. It is now Elvis Presley museum and is one of the most visited houses in the United States. Millions of fans from all over the world visit his house which is now a pilgrimage of sorts. Elvis Presley was known for his kindness, humility and generosity. He would often give money to strangers and was always dedicated to his fans.

    On August 16, 1977 he was found dead by his then girlfriend, Ginger Alden in his bathroom in Graceland, reportedly of a heart attack. He was only 42.

    Play it again, Elvis

    While we may or may not see the ghost of Elvis walking in Memphis, he surely comes alive the moment his deep and heartfelt voice floats from the speakers and we can’t help falling in love with him all over again.

  • The French connection in Bengal

    The French connection in Bengal

    Nestled along the Hooghly River is a tiny town just 35 kilometres from Kolkata that is steeped in history and is definitely worth exploring, writes KALYANI MAJUMDAR.

    Published in Free Press Journal; Date 21.05.2017

    Clock Tower; Image credit: Kalyani Majumdar

    A gentle breeze welcomes you as you step on the Strand. The beautiful promenade along the Hooghly River is a lovely stretch and across it stands a row of beautiful French colonial buildings.  Wait, French? Yes, you read it right! It is a general perception for most that in India the French existed only in Pondicherry. In fact this quaint place called Chandernagore was and still is, the La petit French—the little France—in West Bengal and is only 19 square kilometres in total area. Chandernagore might be a small town but its historical significance cannot be trifled with.

    A town with many names
    The name of the town itself has many derivatives. Some say that the bank of the river forms the shape of the moon—chandra—inBengali; others say it is named after the oldest temple of Goddess Chandi. According to some it was believed to be a centre for selling sandal (chandan). The best way to explore this lovely town is to walk it.

    The advent of the French
    Chandernagore became a French colony in 1673, wherein they established their trading banks, and it became a permanent French settlement by 1688. After the 1757 war with the British the town changed hands a couple of times between the British and the French. However, from 1816 it remained with France till 1950. Although Chandernagore was a French colony, it had a strong convergence of the French and Bengali cultures as many Bengali merchants flourished and played an important role in development of the town.

    Institute de Chandernagore – Dupleix Palace ; Photo credit: Kalyani Majumdar

    Institute de Chandernagore – Dupleix Palace
    In 1730, Joseph François Dupleix was appointed governor of Chandernagore. It was during his time that the town became the main center of commerce in Bengal. The Fort d’Orléans, was also built during his time. Today the reminiscence of Dupleix’s glorious years in Chandernagore is housed in the Institute de Chandernagore that stands in a grand manner located on the Strand commanding a view of the Hooghly River. It is a French colonial building with spacious verandahs enveloping the entire building supported by columns. A flight of steps take you to the entrance to the museum that showcases artefacts, old photographs and Dupleix’s personal belongings. You can spend a good few hours strolling in the garden or sit in the verandah and enjoy the scenic view.

    Every building has a story
    Built in 1904, the Patal Bari (underground house) on the Strand is worth a visit as its lowest floor is submerged in the river. Some very prominent personalities have resided in this house during their visit to the town including Rabindranath Tagore. A clock given by Joseph Daumain sits on the tower facing the promenade reminding everyone of the times that this town has seen. The other grand building on this stretch is the sub-divisional court of Chandernagore. However, it was not always a court. It was the Hotel de Paris. You could very well imagine the spacious verandahs and gardenslit up for the typical Parisian evening soirees. The road off the Strand takes you to Sacred Heart Church. This Roman Catholic Church was built around 1875 and has beautiful stained glass paintings. As you continue walking past the church you come across shops, and old houses competing with new buildings.

    Nandodulal temple ; Photo credit: Kalyani Majumdar

    The temple that withstood cannon fire
    This town played a pivotal role in the famous Battle of Plassey in 1757 when Robert Clive destroyed the Fort de Orleans along with houses and places of worship. There are few buildings that still stand as mute witnesses to Clive’s cannon balls. The temple that still exists from that time is the Nandodulal temple. Built in 1740, it is believed to be the largest dui chala (double-sloped roof) temple in Bengal. Located on a picturesque landscape with a little pond on the rear, the wall still carries theimprint of Clive’s cannon balls.

    Refuge for Indian freedom fighters
    As you peel one layer of history of this town you unravel another layer beneath.  Since Chandernagore was a French colony during the same time when Calcutta was under the British, many freedom fighters from British Bengaltook refuge in French Bengal. The most famous name is of Sri Aurobindo Ghosh. The house where Sri Aurobindo went into hiding and used the space to make bombs still stands. In fact many brave hearts such as Kanailala Dutt and Rajbihari Ghosh that fought for the Indian freedom against the British hailed from this town. You can visit the Prabartak Ashram that was established by Motilal Roy. It used to be a safe haven for freedom fighters.One should not miss the Laldighi on the Grand Trunk road, the cemetery across it, and the old library building not very far from there.

    Local flavour
    Although most of Chandernagore’s identity comes from its French association, but one that continues to have the local Bengali flavour is the Jagaddharti Puja. It is celebrated with much fervor. After a heavy duty history tour one should not miss the lovely evenings at Strand. It looks like the entire town is on the promenade. With shopping carts and ferries on either side of the Strand selling trinkets, street food, icecream carts. Music floating from the Rabindra Bhawan across the street and the sight of old people discussing politics and Tagore on the same breath is quiet a sight, not to be missed by anyone. Albeit, officially Chandernagore merged with West Bengal and became part of India in 1951, the vestiges of the Liberty gate on the south of the town acts as a reminder of the French connection with the inscription sayingLiberté, égalité, fraternité—Liberty, equality, fraternity—the three pillars of the French revolution. We tip the hat for those lovely words that continue to give us hope.

  • Celebrating Oscar Wilde, the iconic writer

    Published in Free Press Journal; Date: 15.10.2017

    Known for his wit and flamboyant style, Oscar Wilde needs no introduction in the literary world. He was certainly a non-conformist, trapped in the narrow-mindedness of the late Victorian English Society. KALYANI MAJUMDAR celebrates the iconic writer.

    Oscar Wilde once wrote, “The world is yours for a season.” Startlingly, the quote came to reflect the trajectory of his own life. He was basking in the glory of his literary works when his life quite dramatically took an unfortunate turn that finally led to his eventual downfall. And, what a great tragedy it was for the world to have lost a brilliant playwright, novelist, essayist and poet. Was he far too bold for the 19th century? Perhaps, he was.

    The early life

    Born in Dublin, Ireland on October 16, 1854, Oscar Wilde was a bright boy with avid interest in Greek and Roman studies. His father Sir William Wilde was a renowned doctor and his mother Jane Wilde was a poet, who wrote under her pen name Speranza. Her liberal ideas had a strong influence on Wilde’s early life. While studying at Portora Royal School, he was awarded a scholarship to attend Trinity College in Dublin. Afterwards, he went on to complete his graduation from Oxford University. At Oxford, he wrote a prize winning poetry titled, Raveena, in 1878.

    A fashion icon

    When Wilde went to New York on a lecture tour, he drew a lot of attention due to his stylish attire and flowing wavy hair that was unlike the fashion that was prevalent then. Not surprisingly, he strongly supported the Dress Reform Movement of the 19th century.

    Feminist, family and children’s stories

    In 1884, he married Constance Lloyd, a wealthy Englishwoman and had two sons Cyril and Vyvyan. He took up a job as the Editor of a magazine on women’s fashion, called The Woman’s World. Wilde expanded the range of content in the magazine by focusing on not just what women should wear but also of what they think and feel. It gave a platform for women to voice their opinion. Simultaneously, Wilde published The Happy Prince and Other Tales, a collection of stories for children in 1888. The popularity of the stories garnered him significant attention and praise.

    Aestheticism and Dorian Grey

    A scene from the movie Picture of Dorian Gray, 1945

    From his Oxford days, Wilde was deeply influenced by Aestheticism. The movement emphasised on the aesthetic value of a creative work that should be independent of vices and virtues. Oscar Wilde was devoted to this idea and his works reflected that fully. In 1891, he published his first and only novel, The Picture of Dorian Grey. It was a story of an attractive young man, Dorian Grey, who traded his soul with his portrait, so that he would remain young while his painting would age. Alas, the novel did not go down well with the Victorian English society, as they felt it had a sheer absence of morality and the lead protagonist lacked virtue. However, Wilde stayed committed to his devotion to aestheticism. While defending his work, he said that right and wrong are just material for the artist to work with. Of course, the book is now revered as one of the finest classics from 19th century and has been adapted into numerous movies, plays and television series.

    The brilliant satirical playwright

    Wilde’s natural wit won the hearts of the masses with his plays. In 1892, he penned his first play, Lady Windermere’s Fan. It received critical acclaim. It was followed by A Woman of No Importance in 1893, again a huge success. Then in 1895 he wrote two plays, An Ideal Husband and The Importance of Being Earnest. The latter went on to become his most popular play. Wilde was the toast of the town. His name was resonating on every socialite’s living room.

    The infamous case

    During the time when Wilde was riding high on his literary success, he got involved with a young man, Lord Alfred Douglas. In his private life Wilde was homosexual and it was an open secret. But in Victorian England being homosexual was a crime. When Douglas’ father, Marquess of Queensberry, got a whiff of the affair, he left a calling card for Oscar Wilde addressing him as a posing sodomite. It was evident that Queensberry wanted to ruin Wilde’s reputation and popularity. When Wilde sued Queensberry for libel, a lengthy trial began and evidences were presented by Queensberry of Wilde’s homosexuality. Although, the credibility of the evidences was rather questionable in nature, Wilde was arrested on charges of ‘gross indecency’. He was convicted for two years of hard labour in prison. Overnight his playbills were removed from every theatre.  Wilde became a pariah. His name was not to be uttered in public.

    The last days

    In 1897 when he was released from prison he was impoverished and alone. He left for Paris. He wrote very little in the last years of his life. In 1898 he wrote The Ballad of Reading Gaol describing his experience at the prison. Wilde died in a cheap hotel in Paris in1900 due to cerebral meningitis at the age of 46. He rests at the Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris and it is one of the most visited graves.

    Questions left unanswered

    In the strange turn of events in his life, there are many ambiguities in the charges that were made against him. Apparently, some documents from the trial went missing. Throughout the trial, few of Wilde’s close friends felt that he was trying to protect Douglas and did not defend himself adequately for some of the outrageous accusations that were brought against him. Clearly, Wilde paid a steep price for his affection for Douglas.

    Literary legend

    Although, Oscar Wilde’s last days were spent as an outcast, he remains immortalised through his brilliant works that he has left behind. His quotes are timeless, and even after more than a century has passed, his writing does not fail to find an eager audience.

  • 2020 World of War: Review

    Published in Free Press Journal; Date: 12.11.2017; Reviewed by Kalyani Majumdar

    Are we heading towards the third world war? If yes, then will it be in the year 2020? Paul Cornish and Kingsley Donaldson in their book, 2020 World Of War, intricately poses all the different scenarios in the current world order that might eventually lead to the world going to war.

    The book offers a comprehensive account of the changing nature of war in today’s world. As we all understand that linear warfare is a thing of the past. It has become far more complex, from cyber security to rapid up gradation and development in weapon technology. The impact of automation technologies on battlefield, such as the unmanned drones are changing the nature of conflicts. Economics and geopolitics have their intricate roles in initiating a war-like situation almost in any part of the world. It helps that both, Cornish and Donaldson come from army backgrounds.

    Paul Cornish was educated at the University of St Andrews and the London School of Economics. He then served in the British Army (Royal Tank Regiment) and the Foreign and Commonwealth Office. Kingsley Donaldson is a retired Army officer. He has served on operations in a number of European and Middle Eastern countries in various roles that span from countering weapons of mass destruction through to negotiating with armed groups in Iraq.

    2020 World Of War, makes for a compelling read as the authors bring their personal experiences and inside knowledge to every plot that they talk about. Does the book give an impression of a grim future? Yes, it does to some extent, as Cornish and Donaldson says, “This book is knowingly and deliberately an exercise in worst-case analysis and as such it is, arguably, precisely how security and policy-makers and analysts should be spending much of their time in a chaotic and often confusing world.”

    Will there be a cyber-attack on the pentagon that might crash the greatest military power in the world? Will there be a standoff between India and Pakistan over Afghanistan? What will happen in Putin’s Russia? And what would be the repercussion of Trump’s policy of isolating US gradually from the rest of the world? Not to forget the pressing issues pertaining to mass migration in Europe due to ISIS. These and many more questions would rise in the reader’s mind while reading 2020 World Of War.

    The book says, “Across Europe, established political systems are experiencing a crisis in public confidence, resulting in the rise of anti-establishment figures, parties and movements, as evinced in extreme right-wing movements gaining popularity, in the Scottish referendum and in the UK ‘Brexit’ referendum in June 2016, and the US Presidential election later the same year.” The book provides a good understanding on why the world is struggling to contain conflicts and offers expert analysis and solutions to combat these situations.

    The book is thought-provoking and insightful. However, some of the scenarios provided in the book seems a bit far-fetched, although time will only tell if everything that 2020 World Of War says is plausible or not. We can only hope for the best, but plan for the worst.  It is a must read for those who are eager to understand how our world would look like in the near future.

    Book: 2020 World of War

    Authors: Paul Cornish and Kingsley Donaldson

    Publisher: Hodder & Stoughton/ Hachette

    Pages: 320; Price: Rs 699

  • Strangers No More: New Narratives from India’s Northeast by Sanjoy Hazarika- Review

    Published in Free Press Journal; Date: 25.02.2018; Reviewed by Kalyani Majumdar

    With three states in the Northeast of India — Meghalaya, Nagaland and Tripura — busy with the assembly elections this February, all of a sudden there is a surge in the amount of coverage the Northeastern states are getting by news channels that are otherwise largely ignored. Unfortunately, the ignorance regarding the Northeast that comprises of eight states, by the people of the rest of India is equally pitiful.

    Thus, the book Strangers No More: New Narratives from India’s Northeast by Sanjoy Hazarika, is a must-read for those that would like to understand the ground realities of the Northeastern states, from socio-economic and political perspectives. It has been twenty years that Hazarika wrote his first book on Northeast, Strangers of the Mist. It was perhaps the first comprehensive book on India’s Northeast and even till this day, his book is referred by researchers, journalists and students pertaining to information on Northeast India. And, now with Strangers No More, Hazarika continues his journey in the Northeast with stories and interviews that provide an in-depth overview of where the Northeast stands, today.

    Hazarika uses his exemplary narrative style to tell the stories that otherwise might go untold.  The author not only highlights the issues that are being currently faced by the people of the Northeastern states, but also, provides suggestions and effective solutions to these issues. Hence, this book can be treated as a handbook by political leaders, non-governmental organisations, activists and specialists that are working at grassroots level, to get a holistic view of the Northeastern states of India, and in turn, help them to focus on the betterment of the people in these states.

    The author has suggestions in the book pertaining to gargantuan sized projects that are planned for Northeastern states, that could also apply to other states in India, “It’s better to improve what we have instead of launching ambitious projects that would lead to endless corruption, delays, frustration, growing anger and confrontation and massive destruction of irreplaceable species. We have no right to do that.”

    While discussing Arunachal Pradesh, the author says, “Arunachal’s political and social stability as well as those of ‘national interest’ mesh and merge at every point in this distant border state.” This aspect makes Arunachal Pradesh an extremely tricky area to tread on, in terms of policies and governance.

    Every page of the book is a minefield of information and stories that upholds everything that one needs to understand about Northeastern states. While for most Indians, Sikkim is a beautiful tourist spot, which holds true, but the other glaring truth is that most are oblivious of its history and how it became part of India. As Indians, perhaps we should ask ourselves, how much do we really know about this Indian state and how much of a concern it generates in the public domain.

    Hazarika brings forth facts that would force the reader to ponder upon issues that are mostly brushed under the carpet. While mentioning about Meghalaya, the author writes, “A closer examination shows that power-broking, moneymaking, environment exploitation and traditional systems and processes are all caught up and bound together in this mesh. Otherwise, how else can one explain the fact that large parts of Shillong, which gets an annual average rainfall of about 2,167 centimetres spread over the summer depend on frantic calls to water tanker companies?”

    “The past always intrudes into the present here and elsewhere in the Northeast.”

    Book title: Strangers No More: New Narratives from India’s Northeast

    Author: Sanjoy Hazarika

    Publisher: Aleph Book Company

    Pages: 296; Price: Rs 799

  • Across the Universe: The Beatles in India by Ajoy Bose- Review

    Published in Free Press Journal; Date: 20.05.2018; Reviewed by Kalyani Majumdar

    The first thing that catches your attention in Across the Universe: The Beatles in India, written by Ajoy Bose is the bright cover with illustrations of the four members of the Beatles sharing cover space along with sitar maestro Pandit Ravi Shankar, Maharishi and all the others that were relevant to the Beatles story in India. However, the back cover art is a real classic that is inspired by Abbey Road and it shows the four band members on Lakshman Jhula. While there is hardly anyone that didn’t know of the long affair that the Beatles had with India, it was about time that an Indian should write about the Beatles episode in India. And, so it came from a veteran journalist, Ajoy Bose. He has authored two books before, one on the Emergency and the other on Mayawati, both extremely political in nature. Thus, it was quite a surprise to see Bose writing on the Beatles.

    Nevertheless, as the chapters unfold the Beatles story, one cannot deny the author’s pure admiration and adulation for the subject of his book. Also, one must understand that writing anything on the Beatles can be an arduous task as there has been so many books on them, thus bringing new stories on the surface might have been challenging. But the author has done a commendable job on both accounts, as the book is well- researched and has interviews that bring in fresh aspects especially, focussing on the personalities of the four members.  The book has anecdotes that provide a clear picture of how big the Beatles were in India and the major impact it had on upcoming rock bands, singers and songwriters in India because of their Rishikesh visit. Bose’s easy narrative style is sometimes laced with humour. For instance, the book says, “…Yet, despite the adulation and enthusiasm of the growing band of Beatles fans in India, their trip to Rishikesh was not without its controversies. There were many people in the country who were openly hostile to both the Maharishi and the arrival of the rock band and other celebrities from the West in his ashram. In the Lok Sabha, the opposition went up in arms alleging that the yogi was in cahoots with the CIA and that many of his guests from abroad were actually foreign spies.”

    The book covers the relationship of the Beatles with Maharishi Mahesh Yogi at the Rishikesh ashram and their eventual fallout with him in great detail. It talks at length of their experience with Transcendental Meditation in India and how they were instrumental in placing Indian music and spirituality on a global arena, with George Harrison remaining a lifelong devotee of Indian music and spirituality.

    A very interesting observation by Bose makes one to even wonder if the Beatles started to have trouble with each other right after their ashram stint. Of course, there was already tension brewing between the band members because of Yoko Ono’s entry in John Lennon’s life, but apart from that, as the author points out, “…Less than a year after they returned from Rishikesh, it was all over but the shouting for the Beatles… in some strange and unfathomable way, their time at Rishikesh appeared to have snapped these personal bonds… Paradoxically enough, in the last throes of their existence coinciding with the closing rites of the momentous decade of the 1960s, the Beatles were individually at the height of their creative powers.”

    Whatever might have been the reasons for the Beatles to break up, but this book definitely takes the reader on a nostalgic journey into the heydays of Beatles mania, and after reading this book by Bose, one might even decide to visit the Beatles Ashram in Rishiskesh.

    Title: Across the Universe: The Beatles in India

    Author: Ajoy Bose

    Publisher: Penguin Viking

    Pages: 320

    Price: Rs 699